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Hidden Treasures of Paris: Promenade Plantée (Coulée Verte)

// December 27th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

In the summer of 2009, shortly before I moved to Paris, New York City opened the now extremely popular “Highline” in Manhattan. The basic concept behind the Highline was to take the deteriorating and long-unused West Side Freight Railroad, which had become an eyesore to all New Yorkers, and turn it into something that could be appreciated by everyone. Needless to say, the project has turned out to be an enormous success.

Promenade Plantée, Paris, France

Unbeknown to most New Yorkers and certainly many visitors of Paris is that the Highline has a predecessor in Paris which predated it by nearly a decade and a half—the Promenade Plantée (also known as the “Coulée Verte”). The Promenade Plantée is a 4.5 km-long (2.8 mile) park found in the 12th Arrondissement of Paris (The elevated portion of the promenade expands 1.5 km). In the early 1990’s the city of Paris transformed an abandoned 19th-century railway viaduct (which ceased operation in 1969), which originally connected the Bastille area of Paris to the eastern most suburbs of Paris, into the Promenade Plantée. As its name implies, the Promenade Plantée has an abundance of plant-life that lines its beautiful walkways. The feeling of being surrounded by so much vegetation within a major city like Paris can leave one feeling as though they are taking a walk on their own private forest trail, at times. At other points in the trail, the vegetation becomes sparse and the Promenade opens into large and expansive views of the 12th Arrondissement, giving you a beautiful view of the skyline and Paris as a whole. This was my first visit to the Coulée Verte and I can only imagine how much more beautiful it is in the Spring and Summer when all the flowers are in full bloom.

Promenade Plantée (in the Summer)

Though the Promenade Plantée was the only elevated park in the world for a long time, other cities have followed suit including the previously mentioned Highline in New York City, as well as Bloomingdale Trail in Chicago and the old Reading Viaduct elevated rail in the Callowhill section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Place des Vosges (4th Arrond.)

// November 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Place des Vosges, a beautiful square situated in the 4th Arrondissement, is one of Paris’ original attempts at urban planning and also happens to be Paris’ oldest planned square.  This square was built under the rule of Henry IV during the years 1605-1612. Originally named “Place Royale,” the name of the square was changed in 1799 when Napoleon decided to show his gratitude to the Department of Vosges because they were the first department in France to pay taxes associated with military campaigns of the time.

Place des Vosges, Paris, France

One enters the Place des Vosges through triples archways located on the north and south end of the square. The square itself is surrounded by 36 identical red brick houses with stone facings. Each of these magnificent houses is fitted with steep blue slate roofs and dorm windows. An arched walkway surrounds the perimeter of the square, while the interior of the square boasts several perfectly manicured lawns, three fountains and an equestrian statue of King Louis XIII (the statue was actually destroyed during the French Revolution, but a new one was installed in 1825). Many famous Frenchmen have lived in the houses of Place des Vosges, including Victor Hugo (he wrote the majority of Les Misérables here).

Like many of Paris’ hidden treasures, Place des Vosges is tucked away and not readily apparent to the average passerby. The arcades that surround the square feature a number of cute shops and cafes that are worth taking a look at. I definitely recommend taking the time to visit Place des Vosges, as it’s yet another of Paris’ beautiful and peaceful squares that is not to be missed.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Place des Vosges

Want to see a video from my visit? Places des Vosges Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin du Palais Royal (1st Arrond.)

// October 18th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes, Treasures

Another splendid Fall afternoon in Paris and another beautiful treasure to discover. For some time I have read and heard about the garden that sits inside the Palais Royal, so I decided that it was finally time to check it out. Completed in 1629, the Palais Royal was originally the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The scenic garden that sits within the Palais’ interior, the Jardin du Palais Royal, was originally created by the duchesse d’Orléans (otherwise known as “Madame”) in 1784.

Jardin du Palais Royal, Paris, France

Today, the Palais Royal houses the Conseil d’État, the Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Culture. Although popular among Parisians who want to spend a leisurely afternoon reading or sipping a coffee at one of the garden cafés, the fact that the garden itself is tucked away within the interior of the Palais makes it one of the lesser known gardens/courtyards in Paris when it comes to the average tourist. The garden itself is quite exquisite, with double-rows of trees running along both sides of the garden–providing visitors some much needed shade during the summer months. Two lawns, separated by a pond/fountain, sit between adjacent rows of trees. For those who are looking to do more than walk through the garden, plenty of benches and chairs are provided.

As previously mentioned, one of the more popular aspects of the garden are the several cafés that surround the perimeter of the courtyard. I took the time to grab a coffee at the one them (the name escapes me at the moment) and it was without question one of the more pleasant café experiences I have had in Paris. The view: fountains, rows of trees, children chasing one another, couples walking hand-in-hand–all very “Parisesque,” if you ask me. Next time you visit the Louvre, take a half hour to hop over to the Jardin du Palais Royal for some much needed respite from the museum’s crowds.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Palais Royal Garden

Want to see a video from my visit? Palais Royal Garden Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits