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Life in France: A Visit to Chartres, France

// November 27th, 2009 // Comments // Chartres, General

My apologies for for the lack of posts as of late, but things have been very busy. This past week I was in Egypt for business and pleasure. But I’m back in Paris now and ready to start posting again, so stay tuned in the coming weeks. On with the post…

The day immediately following my return from Egypt, I headed out for my first day-trip to one of the cities surrounding Paris. For this trip, a couple of my Alliance Francaise classmates and I chose to visit Chartres, a town located about 60 miles southwest of Paris.

Chartres, France

Chartres is best known for its Cathedrale Notre Dame, that sits on a high point within the town. While the Notre Dame cathedral located in Paris is far more famous throughout the world, Chartre’s Notre Dame is, in fact, the largest cathedral in France. Construction on this magnificent structure began in 1205 and took over 65 years to complete. It is now considered by many to be the finest Gothic cathedral in all of France. Evidently, Chartres was also a great centre of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages and the cathedral still exhibits many of the famous relics of this period including the silk tunic worn by Mary on the day she gave birth to Jesus.

While the church is the centerpiece of this town, it’s not the only reason to visit. Walking around the town is a pleasure in-and-of-itself. Chartre’s is full of beautiful winding streets that are a joy to explore. Additionally, the city is built on the left bank of the Eure River, which runs through the town. Small, yet romantic, stone bridges take one back-and-forth across the river. There are a select few restaurants that sit right on the water that make for a wonderful lunch break during your visit.

The Bridges of Chartres, France

The round-trip ticket only cost about €27 and travel time is only 1-hour each way. You could easily see much of what Chartres has to offer in a few hours, making it very simple to only spend half a day on this excursion. Overall, this was a very successful trip and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to get out of the city for a day.

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th Arrond.)

// November 12th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

I very well might have found my new favorite “hidden treasure”: Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Without knowing it, I actually visited this park before, but it was at night so I had no clue how awesome it was.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

While it’s a beautiful place now, Parc des Buttes Chaumont was not always so alluring. According to a bit of research, before the 19th century this area once featured gallows where criminals were executed. Later it became a lime quarry and until 1862 it was used as a public waste ground. Since then, however, many changes have taken place and it has become a wonderful haven in Paris.

The park, which you’ll find in the 19th Arrondissement, is a short walk from metro stops Botzaris or Buttes Chaumont. They’re not the easiest metro stops to get to but that’s part of what makes this place a hidden treasure. There is also no question that the trouble of taking 3 trains to get there was well worth it once I saw what the park had to offer. With almost 3 miles of walking paths, I spent nearly 2 hours strolling through this Parisian treasure. Far from the average park (I’ve found that few parks in Paris are even close to “average”), Parc des Buttes Chaumont boasts a 98-foot waterfall, man-made cave, suspension bridges, hilly lawns, a lake (complete with ducks) and stunning stone gazebo that overlooks the park as well as much of Paris (with an especially awesome view of Sacré-Cœur).

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

Given that the park is so far from the center of Paris, it remains relatively non-touristy year-round, though I know it is a popular jogging/strolling spot for local Parisians. When I visited, however, there were only a handful of people and I really got the sense that I was far-removed from the daily chaos of Paris (much the same feeling as when I visited Jardin de la Vallée Suisse). So if you’re looking for a respite from all the noise, crowds, and other less-than-pleasant qualities of a metropolis like Paris, Parc des Buttes Chaumont is certainly the sanctuary you’ve been searching for.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Want to see a video from my visit? Parc des Buttes Chaumont Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Place des Vosges (4th Arrond.)

// November 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Place des Vosges, a beautiful square situated in the 4th Arrondissement, is one of Paris’ original attempts at urban planning and also happens to be Paris’ oldest planned square.  This square was built under the rule of Henry IV during the years 1605-1612. Originally named “Place Royale,” the name of the square was changed in 1799 when Napoleon decided to show his gratitude to the Department of Vosges because they were the first department in France to pay taxes associated with military campaigns of the time.

Place des Vosges, Paris, France

One enters the Place des Vosges through triples archways located on the north and south end of the square. The square itself is surrounded by 36 identical red brick houses with stone facings. Each of these magnificent houses is fitted with steep blue slate roofs and dorm windows. An arched walkway surrounds the perimeter of the square, while the interior of the square boasts several perfectly manicured lawns, three fountains and an equestrian statue of King Louis XIII (the statue was actually destroyed during the French Revolution, but a new one was installed in 1825). Many famous Frenchmen have lived in the houses of Place des Vosges, including Victor Hugo (he wrote the majority of Les Misérables here).

Like many of Paris’ hidden treasures, Place des Vosges is tucked away and not readily apparent to the average passerby. The arcades that surround the square feature a number of cute shops and cafes that are worth taking a look at. I definitely recommend taking the time to visit Place des Vosges, as it’s yet another of Paris’ beautiful and peaceful squares that is not to be missed.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Place des Vosges

Want to see a video from my visit? Places des Vosges Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin du Palais Royal (1st Arrond.)

// October 18th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes, Treasures

Another splendid Fall afternoon in Paris and another beautiful treasure to discover. For some time I have read and heard about the garden that sits inside the Palais Royal, so I decided that it was finally time to check it out. Completed in 1629, the Palais Royal was originally the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The scenic garden that sits within the Palais’ interior, the Jardin du Palais Royal, was originally created by the duchesse d’Orléans (otherwise known as “Madame”) in 1784.

Jardin du Palais Royal, Paris, France

Today, the Palais Royal houses the Conseil d’État, the Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Culture. Although popular among Parisians who want to spend a leisurely afternoon reading or sipping a coffee at one of the garden cafés, the fact that the garden itself is tucked away within the interior of the Palais makes it one of the lesser known gardens/courtyards in Paris when it comes to the average tourist. The garden itself is quite exquisite, with double-rows of trees running along both sides of the garden–providing visitors some much needed shade during the summer months. Two lawns, separated by a pond/fountain, sit between adjacent rows of trees. For those who are looking to do more than walk through the garden, plenty of benches and chairs are provided.

As previously mentioned, one of the more popular aspects of the garden are the several cafés that surround the perimeter of the courtyard. I took the time to grab a coffee at the one them (the name escapes me at the moment) and it was without question one of the more pleasant café experiences I have had in Paris. The view: fountains, rows of trees, children chasing one another, couples walking hand-in-hand–all very “Parisesque,” if you ask me. Next time you visit the Louvre, take a half hour to hop over to the Jardin du Palais Royal for some much needed respite from the museum’s crowds.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Palais Royal Garden

Want to see a video from my visit? Palais Royal Garden Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Restaurant Review: Dans le Noir (4th Arrond.)

// September 29th, 2009 // Comments // Restaurants

I can say without question that I had one of the most interesting dining experiences of my life last night. A close friend of mine is visiting Paris and we were looking to do something out of the ordinary, so we chose to book a reservation at Dans le Noir. “Dans le Noir” directly translated means “In The Dark” and the name of the restaurant could not better sum up the dining experience–you literally dine in complete darkness. Interesting concept, right? The inspiration behind this and other so-called “dark” restaurants around the world is that when diners are deprived of their sense of sight, other senses are heightened–namely the sense of smell and taste.

Dans le Noir, Paris, France

The evening began by checking all items at the door that have the ability to emit light including cell phones, lighters, and watches. Next, we were asked to select what we wanted to have for dinner.  There are only a few options to choose from: appetizer + main course, main course + desert or appetizer + main course + desert. We both chose the third option. While guests have the ability to select what they’ll actually be eating (food allergies are taken into consideration), most choose to go with the “mystery” option which means exactly what it implies–you don’t know what you will be eating. After selecting our dinner option, we were introduced to our waiter Moran. Moran, like the entire wait staff, is completely blind. Each waiter/waitress has memorized every square foot of the interior “dark room” of the restaurant. A brief introduction and instructions followed and then I placed my hands on Moran’s shoulders and Ben did the same to me. We were led into the dark room slowly and when we finally reached our table, I was told to stand completely still while Ben was led around to his seat on the other side of the table. Moran then explained what exactly was on our table and gave us instruction to call his name if we needed anything, then we were alone with our bottle of wine and what I would guess were about 20-40 other diners.

After strategizing for for a minute or two with Ben about how we were going to pour our wine, we eventually agreed that the best move was to pour it while holding one finger just inside the glass–it worked out quite well. A few minutes later our appetizers arrived. Moran called Ben’s name first, as he reached out to feel for his hands to hand him the plate, then came mine. Our attempts to use our forks and knives turned out to be futile relatively quickly and we instead chose to eat with our hands. While you could hear the clanging of utensils around us, I personally think eating with our hands added to the experience. The tactile sensations were quite interesting as we tried to eat without spilling dropping food all over ourselves. Throughout the night we played a guessing game, attempting to pinpoint what exactly we were eating. Most of the time we were pretty far off (as we found out later). I can say without question that the entire meal from appetizer to desert was delicious. The quality of food at Dans le Noir is up there with some of the better restaurants I have dined in here in Paris.

When the meal was over, we were escorted back out of the dark room and into the light. The first thing I did after trying to handle the harsh light was to check out my white shirt (not the best choice when dining at Dans le Noir)–I only had two small spots, not bad. We were then presented with a menu binder that included pictures of everything we ate. As I mentioned earlier, we were pretty far off in guessing what we were actually eating, but I can say that the dinner looked as good as it actually tasted.

I would recommend that everyone dine at Dans le Noir at some point during their time in Paris, as the entire experience is one that is not soon to be forgotten.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Life in Paris: Beautiful Paris Sunset

// September 23rd, 2009 // Comments // General

The sunset tonight reminded me of how lucky I am to be living in Paris. I couldn’t help but share a few of the photos that I took from my apartment window. [Please note: Click on each image to view it in full size in a new browser window, as the thumbnail images sometimes cut off much of the actual photo]

If you wish to view and/or download the original images from Flickr, you can do so by clicking here.

Life in Paris: Journees du Patrimoine (Heritage Days)

// September 21st, 2009 // Comments // General

I just added yet another thing to my list of “Wonderful Things About Paris”: Journees du Patrimoine. So what is it? For those who don’t know, Journees du Patrimoine (or “Heritage Days”) is a weekend of cultural events within Paris and throughout France. Taking place on the third weekend of September each year, Journees du Patrimoine is time when locals and tourists alike are granted free entrance to 250 events, museums, churches, monuments, and more. With few exceptions, just about every popular and well-known place in Paris is open and free. Additionally, there are a number of locations that are usually closed to the public that open on Journees du Patrimoine, such as the Palais de l’Élysée–the official residence of the President of the French Republic.

View of the Afternoon Sky from the Garden in the Petit Palais (Paris, France)

As one might expect, with lots of wonderful and free places to visit, the lines can get ridiculously long. I made an attempt to visit the Palais de l’Élysée, but after seeing the line (which was reputed to be 6 hours long), I decided to head elsewhere. I also tried to visit the Moulin Rouge, but when I arrived I only saw a sign reading “completo” (full/finished). I did manage to visit an exhibition of old Metro cars at Porte d’Auteuil, the Petit Palais, Les Invalides (home of Napoleon’s tomb), as well as Opéra National (home of the chandelier from Phantom of the Opéra). Each of these events/locations was great, but my favorite had to be the Opéra–definitely a worthwhile visit.

The concept of Journees du Patrimoine and its execution (other than the ridiculously long lines) is great. It appears as though the whole of Paris takes full advantage of the weekend’s events, so it’s just another great way that the city encourages locals and tourists to further appreciate Paris and all that it has to offer. Looking forward to next year’s events (and this time I’ll be prepared to arrive early).

Paris Cafe Review: Le Berkeley (8th Arrond.)

// September 17th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes

For my next review, I decided it was time to check out one of my neighborhood cafes. This week it was Le Berkeley in the 8th arrondissement. Roughly a 20 second walk from my door, this relatively chic hotel bar and restaurant sits on the corner of Avenue Matignon and Avenue Gabriel.

Le Berkeley, Paris, France

Built in the 1920’s, Le Berkeley provides its guests with a beautiful setting, both inside and out. Red is the color of choice in this fancy joint, with chairs, couches and walls draped in red velvet. Beautiful paintings surround diners as they eat and should you find the need to visit les toilettes, you’ll make your way up one of two splendid wooden staircases. While the interior is extremely pleasant, for those who are only stopping by for a drink (as I was), I recommend sitting at one of the cozy tables outside. With a pleasant view of the park across the street and heat lamps to keep you warm on a cold day, Le Berkeley makes for the perfect place to spend a chilly fall afternoon.

The presentation of your drink will match the classy atmosphere of the restaurant itself. My hot chocolate came with a petite carafe of pure chocolate syrup and a separate cup of steaming hot milk–allowing you to mix the perfect hot chocolate, just the way you like it. At €6, however, you’re definitely paying more for the atmosphere than the hot chocolate itself. While the outdoor tables are perfect for a drink or coffee with a friend, I wouldn’t recommend Le Berkeley to someone looking for a place to do some afternoon leisure reading. Though I can’t speak from experience, I get the feeling that Le Berkley is not the type of establishment that welcomes those of us who like to read for a couple of hours over a café crème. That said,  the tables outside are still quite enjoyable and I would suggest that anyone check this place out at least once. If you’re going to Le Berkeley for more than a drink, however, be warned. I hear that while the atmosphere is exquisite, the food is not. Chances are your meal will fall short of your expectations and will leave a sizable dent in your wallet, as well.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Nightlife Review: Le Cab (1st Arrond.)

// September 13th, 2009 // Comments // Nightlife

I’m not usually one for going out to a nightclub on the weekends, but after a fellow student from Alliance Francaise invited me to Le Cab, I though to myself “Why not give it a shot?” On top of that, the word on the street was that Pablo Picaso’s great grandson was DJing that night, which made the prospect of going out marginally more interesting.

Le Cab Nightclub - Paris, France

Located in the 1st Arrondissement, Le Cab (short for Cabaret) is known to be an “ultra trendy and trés chic” nightclub just beside the Palais Royal. Not knowing what I was getting myself into, I looked up a few reviews on the club beforehand and all of them basically said the same thing–it’s a place where VIPs and fashionistas go to party the night away. Far from my scene, I showed up to the club at roughly 12am (when Le Cab opens) dressed to the nines. After having read numerous reviews about the ultra-strict door policy (one of the toughest in Paris supposedly), I was ready for a big hassle at the door. To my amazement, it was surprisingly easy to get in. If you’re not on “the list,” however, expect to pay a €20 cover-charge.

Once inside, Le Cab is just like you might expect a high-end club to be. White beds, lace curtains and purple ambient light surround the club. Plenty of trendy and pretty people occupy the surrounding tables, with many of them spending their time in the cordoned off VIP section. Be warned, drinks don’t come cheap, with just about any drink you want costing you €15 or more. (If you happened to pay the cover charge, you can use your stub for one free drink at the bar, however.) The dance floor is large and packed for most of the night. Le cab plays a variety of music, with most of is falling into the techno or dance-hit genre. If you’re lucky, they might throw something more interesting into the mix, as well.

For all the hype around this club, I can’t say I was overly impressed (then again, it’s not really my “scene”). You’ll find loud music, pretty people and an upscale atmosphere, but for the most part it isn’t much different than going to any other dance club, other than the fact that you’re in a “VIP” nightclub. It might be worth checking out once if you’re into the high-end club scene, but for those who are looking for a fun night out in Paris, I would spend my night (and money) elsewhere.

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin des Plantes [Jardin Alpine] (5th Arrond.)

// September 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

After taking advantage of the first Sunday of the month here in Paris to gain free entry to the Pompidou Centre, I couldn’t help but track down another one of Paris’ “hidden gardens.” Roughly a 25 minute walk from Pompidou sits Jardin des Plantes, the premiere botanical garden in France. On the garden’s grounds sits a botanical school, four galleries of the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, several specialized gardens, a labyrinth and even a small zoo.

Jardin des Plantes - Jardin Alpine, Paris, France

Originally designed as a medical herb garden in 1626 by Louis XIII’s physician, Guy de La Brosse, this garden now welcomes tens of thousands of visitors a year. As previously mentioned, Jardin des Plantes is separated into several smaller, themed gardens, including: a rose garden, botanical garden, irises/climbing plants, tropical garden and the alpine garden. While entry to the Jardin des Plantes is free, there is a small 1€ fee for each specialized garden. I chose to visit the Jardin Alpine, in particular, after having read good things about it in the New York Times–I was not disappointed.

The Jardin Alpine is somewhat of a sanctuary within the relatively busy Jardin des Plantes. Contained within the garden’s walls, you will find plants from many of the mountain ranges around France (including Provence, Cevennes and the Pyrenees) as well as the world. Walkways made of small stone pebbles lead you throughout the garden. The paths take you across tiny streams, by moss-covered bogs, and up and down small plateaus. The closer one gets to the back of the garden, the thicker and more beautiful the vegetation gets.

A truly delightful experience, the Jardin Alpine is well worth the 1€ donation to the beautiful Jardin des Plantes. One could easily spend half a day visiting all of the gardens and galleries within the Jardin, but if that’s not your style, I highly recommend taking an hour out of your day to take a stroll through the Jardin Alpine when you get the chance.

Want to see pictures from my visit? Jardin des Plantes Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Jardin des Plantes Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits