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Paris Cafe Review: Le Vrai Paris (18th Arrond.)

// October 10th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes

Le Vrai Paris, Paris, France

Located on the corner of Rue des Abbesses and Rue Germain Pilon, Le Vrai Paris is a delightful café in the heart of Montmartre. Situated next door to the popular café/restaurant Le Sancerre, Le Vrai Paris is ideally suited for those who love people watching. Even on a gloomy day like today, people were out in force, crowding the surrounding streets.

Le Vrai offers its customers comfortable seating on their sidewalk terrace, although one should expect to get up close and personal with their fellow diners if you visit on a weekend. You will find a relatively eclectic group of people visiting Le Vrai Paris, including tourists, expats, locals and the chic young Parisian crowds that spend their afternoons in the area. The wait-staff was surprisingly friendly, as I’m not typically used to waiters in Paris serving up smiles along with my café creme. Prices were what I expected–€3.80 for a café creme– given that this area is very popular with locals and tourists alike, but I was happy to see they were lower than the €5 that I have paid similarly trendy neighborhoods.

Next time you find yourself in Montmartre, stop by Le Vrai Paris for a café or a quick meal, you’ll be happy you did.

Day & Time of Visit: Saturday @ 3:00PM

Want to see photos from my visit?: Cafe Review Photos

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Life in Paris: Sunday Dinner with Jim Haynes (14th Arrond.)

// October 4th, 2009 // Comments // General, Restaurants

For those of you who follow my Twitter account, you are probably already aware that last Sunday I attended my first ever Jim Haynes dinner over in the 14th Arrondissement. Many who live in Paris or frequent the city may have already heard of Jim, but for the rest of you let me provide a brief introduction. Jim Haynes, a world traveler and expat living here in Paris, has opened his home to complete strangers every Sunday for the past 30 years or so.

Sunday Dinner with Jim Haynes, Paris, France

In Jim’s own words,

“Every week for the past 30 years, I’ve hosted a Sunday dinner in my home in Paris. People, including total strangers, call or e-mail to book a spot… Every Sunday a different friend prepares a feast. Last week it was a philosophy student from Lisbon, and next week a dear friend from London will cook.

People from all corners of the world come to break bread together, to meet, to talk, connect and often become friends. All ages, nationalities, races, professions gather here, and since there is no organized seating, the opportunity for mingling couldn’t be better. I love the randomness.

I believe in introducing people to people…”

As you might imagine, Jim is an extremely interesting and personable man whose outlook on life is inspiring. The writer of a number of books, Jim has enough experiences with people, traveling and women (according to his books) to make just about any conversation and interesting and enlightening one. He does a wonderful job of going out of his way to make a personal connection with just about every person who attends his dinners.

I first heard about the “Sunday Dinners with Jim Haynes” a few years ago, but had completely forgotten about them since. Recently, my friend Ben visited Paris and recalled hearing about the dinners himself, so we decided to give it a shot. After a brief call to Jim (only 30 minutes before the dinner was to start), we were on our way. Immediately after entering Jim’s home, we felt welcome and began to meet people…from England, Germany, Australia, China…people who were traveling, lived in Paris, expats, newlyweds, and so on. A more eclectic and interesting group of people would be hard to find in one place on a random Sunday night in Paris.

The environment is perfectly set-up to encourage interaction among all the guests. Given the fact that there is no assigned seating or even a dinner table for that matter, we spent most of the night mingling with internationals in the kitchen or out in the garden. Dinner, which included three courses, was delicious.

Jim’s dinners attract a very international community, so the language of choice tends to be English, but there was no shortage of French and other languages being spoken. For the most part everyone was very interesting, though as you might expect you’re bound to meet a couple rather awkward people when you bring a group of 60 strangers together for dinner. Regardless, everyone had an interesting story to tell.

Sunday dinner at Jim’s was a unique and worthwhile experience, without question. I met some very good people, practiced a little bit of my French, discussed business with people from all over the world and may have even made a new friend or two. If you happen to find yourself in Paris on a Sunday evening and want to meet have a good dinner and interesting conversation, you should certainly make time to reserve a spot at Jim’s next time you’re in town.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Restaurant Review: Dans le Noir (4th Arrond.)

// September 29th, 2009 // Comments // Restaurants

I can say without question that I had one of the most interesting dining experiences of my life last night. A close friend of mine is visiting Paris and we were looking to do something out of the ordinary, so we chose to book a reservation at Dans le Noir. “Dans le Noir” directly translated means “In The Dark” and the name of the restaurant could not better sum up the dining experience–you literally dine in complete darkness. Interesting concept, right? The inspiration behind this and other so-called “dark” restaurants around the world is that when diners are deprived of their sense of sight, other senses are heightened–namely the sense of smell and taste.

Dans le Noir, Paris, France

The evening began by checking all items at the door that have the ability to emit light including cell phones, lighters, and watches. Next, we were asked to select what we wanted to have for dinner.  There are only a few options to choose from: appetizer + main course, main course + desert or appetizer + main course + desert. We both chose the third option. While guests have the ability to select what they’ll actually be eating (food allergies are taken into consideration), most choose to go with the “mystery” option which means exactly what it implies–you don’t know what you will be eating. After selecting our dinner option, we were introduced to our waiter Moran. Moran, like the entire wait staff, is completely blind. Each waiter/waitress has memorized every square foot of the interior “dark room” of the restaurant. A brief introduction and instructions followed and then I placed my hands on Moran’s shoulders and Ben did the same to me. We were led into the dark room slowly and when we finally reached our table, I was told to stand completely still while Ben was led around to his seat on the other side of the table. Moran then explained what exactly was on our table and gave us instruction to call his name if we needed anything, then we were alone with our bottle of wine and what I would guess were about 20-40 other diners.

After strategizing for for a minute or two with Ben about how we were going to pour our wine, we eventually agreed that the best move was to pour it while holding one finger just inside the glass–it worked out quite well. A few minutes later our appetizers arrived. Moran called Ben’s name first, as he reached out to feel for his hands to hand him the plate, then came mine. Our attempts to use our forks and knives turned out to be futile relatively quickly and we instead chose to eat with our hands. While you could hear the clanging of utensils around us, I personally think eating with our hands added to the experience. The tactile sensations were quite interesting as we tried to eat without spilling dropping food all over ourselves. Throughout the night we played a guessing game, attempting to pinpoint what exactly we were eating. Most of the time we were pretty far off (as we found out later). I can say without question that the entire meal from appetizer to desert was delicious. The quality of food at Dans le Noir is up there with some of the better restaurants I have dined in here in Paris.

When the meal was over, we were escorted back out of the dark room and into the light. The first thing I did after trying to handle the harsh light was to check out my white shirt (not the best choice when dining at Dans le Noir)–I only had two small spots, not bad. We were then presented with a menu binder that included pictures of everything we ate. As I mentioned earlier, we were pretty far off in guessing what we were actually eating, but I can say that the dinner looked as good as it actually tasted.

I would recommend that everyone dine at Dans le Noir at some point during their time in Paris, as the entire experience is one that is not soon to be forgotten.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Life in Paris: Beautiful Paris Sunset

// September 23rd, 2009 // Comments // General

The sunset tonight reminded me of how lucky I am to be living in Paris. I couldn’t help but share a few of the photos that I took from my apartment window. [Please note: Click on each image to view it in full size in a new browser window, as the thumbnail images sometimes cut off much of the actual photo]

If you wish to view and/or download the original images from Flickr, you can do so by clicking here.

Life in Paris: Journees du Patrimoine (Heritage Days)

// September 21st, 2009 // Comments // General

I just added yet another thing to my list of “Wonderful Things About Paris”: Journees du Patrimoine. So what is it? For those who don’t know, Journees du Patrimoine (or “Heritage Days”) is a weekend of cultural events within Paris and throughout France. Taking place on the third weekend of September each year, Journees du Patrimoine is time when locals and tourists alike are granted free entrance to 250 events, museums, churches, monuments, and more. With few exceptions, just about every popular and well-known place in Paris is open and free. Additionally, there are a number of locations that are usually closed to the public that open on Journees du Patrimoine, such as the Palais de l’Élysée–the official residence of the President of the French Republic.

View of the Afternoon Sky from the Garden in the Petit Palais (Paris, France)

As one might expect, with lots of wonderful and free places to visit, the lines can get ridiculously long. I made an attempt to visit the Palais de l’Élysée, but after seeing the line (which was reputed to be 6 hours long), I decided to head elsewhere. I also tried to visit the Moulin Rouge, but when I arrived I only saw a sign reading “completo” (full/finished). I did manage to visit an exhibition of old Metro cars at Porte d’Auteuil, the Petit Palais, Les Invalides (home of Napoleon’s tomb), as well as Opéra National (home of the chandelier from Phantom of the Opéra). Each of these events/locations was great, but my favorite had to be the Opéra–definitely a worthwhile visit.

The concept of Journees du Patrimoine and its execution (other than the ridiculously long lines) is great. It appears as though the whole of Paris takes full advantage of the weekend’s events, so it’s just another great way that the city encourages locals and tourists to further appreciate Paris and all that it has to offer. Looking forward to next year’s events (and this time I’ll be prepared to arrive early).

Paris Cafe Review: Le Berkeley (8th Arrond.)

// September 17th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes

For my next review, I decided it was time to check out one of my neighborhood cafes. This week it was Le Berkeley in the 8th arrondissement. Roughly a 20 second walk from my door, this relatively chic hotel bar and restaurant sits on the corner of Avenue Matignon and Avenue Gabriel.

Le Berkeley, Paris, France

Built in the 1920’s, Le Berkeley provides its guests with a beautiful setting, both inside and out. Red is the color of choice in this fancy joint, with chairs, couches and walls draped in red velvet. Beautiful paintings surround diners as they eat and should you find the need to visit les toilettes, you’ll make your way up one of two splendid wooden staircases. While the interior is extremely pleasant, for those who are only stopping by for a drink (as I was), I recommend sitting at one of the cozy tables outside. With a pleasant view of the park across the street and heat lamps to keep you warm on a cold day, Le Berkeley makes for the perfect place to spend a chilly fall afternoon.

The presentation of your drink will match the classy atmosphere of the restaurant itself. My hot chocolate came with a petite carafe of pure chocolate syrup and a separate cup of steaming hot milk–allowing you to mix the perfect hot chocolate, just the way you like it. At €6, however, you’re definitely paying more for the atmosphere than the hot chocolate itself. While the outdoor tables are perfect for a drink or coffee with a friend, I wouldn’t recommend Le Berkeley to someone looking for a place to do some afternoon leisure reading. Though I can’t speak from experience, I get the feeling that Le Berkley is not the type of establishment that welcomes those of us who like to read for a couple of hours over a café crème. That said,  the tables outside are still quite enjoyable and I would suggest that anyone check this place out at least once. If you’re going to Le Berkeley for more than a drink, however, be warned. I hear that while the atmosphere is exquisite, the food is not. Chances are your meal will fall short of your expectations and will leave a sizable dent in your wallet, as well.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Nightlife Review: Le Cab (1st Arrond.)

// September 13th, 2009 // Comments // Nightlife

I’m not usually one for going out to a nightclub on the weekends, but after a fellow student from Alliance Francaise invited me to Le Cab, I though to myself “Why not give it a shot?” On top of that, the word on the street was that Pablo Picaso’s great grandson was DJing that night, which made the prospect of going out marginally more interesting.

Le Cab Nightclub - Paris, France

Located in the 1st Arrondissement, Le Cab (short for Cabaret) is known to be an “ultra trendy and trés chic” nightclub just beside the Palais Royal. Not knowing what I was getting myself into, I looked up a few reviews on the club beforehand and all of them basically said the same thing–it’s a place where VIPs and fashionistas go to party the night away. Far from my scene, I showed up to the club at roughly 12am (when Le Cab opens) dressed to the nines. After having read numerous reviews about the ultra-strict door policy (one of the toughest in Paris supposedly), I was ready for a big hassle at the door. To my amazement, it was surprisingly easy to get in. If you’re not on “the list,” however, expect to pay a €20 cover-charge.

Once inside, Le Cab is just like you might expect a high-end club to be. White beds, lace curtains and purple ambient light surround the club. Plenty of trendy and pretty people occupy the surrounding tables, with many of them spending their time in the cordoned off VIP section. Be warned, drinks don’t come cheap, with just about any drink you want costing you €15 or more. (If you happened to pay the cover charge, you can use your stub for one free drink at the bar, however.) The dance floor is large and packed for most of the night. Le cab plays a variety of music, with most of is falling into the techno or dance-hit genre. If you’re lucky, they might throw something more interesting into the mix, as well.

For all the hype around this club, I can’t say I was overly impressed (then again, it’s not really my “scene”). You’ll find loud music, pretty people and an upscale atmosphere, but for the most part it isn’t much different than going to any other dance club, other than the fact that you’re in a “VIP” nightclub. It might be worth checking out once if you’re into the high-end club scene, but for those who are looking for a fun night out in Paris, I would spend my night (and money) elsewhere.

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin des Plantes [Jardin Alpine] (5th Arrond.)

// September 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

After taking advantage of the first Sunday of the month here in Paris to gain free entry to the Pompidou Centre, I couldn’t help but track down another one of Paris’ “hidden gardens.” Roughly a 25 minute walk from Pompidou sits Jardin des Plantes, the premiere botanical garden in France. On the garden’s grounds sits a botanical school, four galleries of the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, several specialized gardens, a labyrinth and even a small zoo.

Jardin des Plantes - Jardin Alpine, Paris, France

Originally designed as a medical herb garden in 1626 by Louis XIII’s physician, Guy de La Brosse, this garden now welcomes tens of thousands of visitors a year. As previously mentioned, Jardin des Plantes is separated into several smaller, themed gardens, including: a rose garden, botanical garden, irises/climbing plants, tropical garden and the alpine garden. While entry to the Jardin des Plantes is free, there is a small 1€ fee for each specialized garden. I chose to visit the Jardin Alpine, in particular, after having read good things about it in the New York Times–I was not disappointed.

The Jardin Alpine is somewhat of a sanctuary within the relatively busy Jardin des Plantes. Contained within the garden’s walls, you will find plants from many of the mountain ranges around France (including Provence, Cevennes and the Pyrenees) as well as the world. Walkways made of small stone pebbles lead you throughout the garden. The paths take you across tiny streams, by moss-covered bogs, and up and down small plateaus. The closer one gets to the back of the garden, the thicker and more beautiful the vegetation gets.

A truly delightful experience, the Jardin Alpine is well worth the 1€ donation to the beautiful Jardin des Plantes. One could easily spend half a day visiting all of the gardens and galleries within the Jardin, but if that’s not your style, I highly recommend taking an hour out of your day to take a stroll through the Jardin Alpine when you get the chance.

Want to see pictures from my visit? Jardin des Plantes Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Jardin des Plantes Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin de la Vallée Suisse (8th Arrond.)

// September 5th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Paris is well known for its magnificent gardens such as the Tuileries or the Jardin du Luxembourg. However, there are many lesser known gardens, some of which are hidden behind tall hedges or on unassuming corners of Paris. Today, venturing out in my own arrondissement (the 8th e.), I discovered Jardin de la Vallée Suisse. This tiny garden, tucked away behind a series of tall hedges on the corner of the corner of Ave. Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Vallée Suisse (next to the Palais de la Découverte), takes of all of 1.7 acres on this busy corner.

Jardin de la Vallée Suisse, Paris, France

Built in the late 19th century by the park designer Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand, the average passerby would never notice the hidden treasure that sits just meters away. One enters the garden by walking down a series of stone steps and then passes through a stone archway, revealing the wonderful hidden jewel that is Jardin de la Vallée Suisse. Once in the garden, one finds himself surrounded by bamboo, lemon trees, roses, ivy, hanging vines and evergreens. Completely secluded from the busy Paris streets, I found myself completely alone in this garden—the sounds of the traffic barely audible, drowned out by the trickle of the tiny waterfall that feeds the beautiful pond just inside the garden. The pond and stream, as I later learned, are fed by the Seine. This splendid pond is home to many fish and is regularly visited by chirping birds of all sorts.

The privacy and serenity that Jardin de la Vallée Suisse provides makes it ideal for an intimate conversation, romantic rendezvous, or just a quiet day of reading alone. Foot-traffic is light in the garden, so one need not worry about having to share it with many others.

Want to see a photos of my visit? Jardin de la Vallée Suisse Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Jardin de la Vallée Suisse Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Learning French in Paris: Alliance Française vs. La Sorbonne

// September 2nd, 2009 // Comments // General

I began my French classes this week, which partly explains the lack of updates to the blog in the past few days. Aside from work, the primary reasons for coming to France were to live abroad and, obviously, learn French. While there are an array of options for learning French, there are three options that typically come up if you ask around: Alliance Française, La Sorbonne, and private tutoring.

Learning French in Paris...

While private tutoring is probably the best option (if you have a good tutor), it is also going to cost you a lot more than classes. On the other hand, while still pricey, both Alliance Française and La Sorbonne will cost about the same–roughly €800/month (4 hours/day, 5 days/week). While I have heard good things about both Alliance Française and La Sobonne, it seems to me that there are some key differences in the teaching style and atmosphere at each school.

La Sorbonne appears to be a much more “traditional” style of teaching French, with lots of notetaking, listening and repeating phrases from headsets, along with brief presentations. I’m also told the class moves very quickly (maybe too quickly?) and can be, at times, somewhat intimidating, especially for a beginner. On the flip-side, Alliance Française is a less-traditional and more free-flowing casual atmosphere. Casual is not to be considered synonymous with easy or unprofessional, however. Alliance Française is known to cater to students from all over the world and it has gained a reputation for being a top-notch school that will suit French-speakers of all levels well, especially beginners.

From my own experience at Alliance Française thus far, its reputation is well-deserved. I’m enrolled in “Intensive General French” classes (4 hours a day, 5 days a week) and the day is broken up well into listening to native french speakers, completing workbook exercises, practicing spoken french (introductions, counting, questions), group activities, etc. Each day ends with a few homework assignments, which I’m told increase in difficulty and length as the course progresses. Currently, my homework assignments take roughly 30 minutes, but that’s because we have so little to work off of in day 3. I’ve been spending additional time at the school’s library (roughly 2 and 1/2 hours) to run through complimentary exercises that are provided in workbooks free-of-charge. The library also includes many other bonuses, including movies (in every format: French w/ French subtitles, English w/ French subtitles, French w/ English subtitles, etc.), computer stations with practice lessons, books from beginner to advanced levels, and so on.

While it’s only my first week, I already feel like I’m starting to pick up a few things, though I know that having any real understanding of the French language is a long way off. I’ll continue updating my progress as the moth progresses and provide you all with an assessment of the program in the coming weeks.

[Please note, these reviews are only from the research I've done and what I've heard. If you have had a different experience with either school, please feel free to leave your thoughts in the comments section.]