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Hidden Treasures of Paris: Promenade Plantée (Coulée Verte)

// December 27th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

In the summer of 2009, shortly before I moved to Paris, New York City opened the now extremely popular “Highline” in Manhattan. The basic concept behind the Highline was to take the deteriorating and long-unused West Side Freight Railroad, which had become an eyesore to all New Yorkers, and turn it into something that could be appreciated by everyone. Needless to say, the project has turned out to be an enormous success.

Promenade Plantée, Paris, France

Unbeknown to most New Yorkers and certainly many visitors of Paris is that the Highline has a predecessor in Paris which predated it by nearly a decade and a half—the Promenade Plantée (also known as the “Coulée Verte”). The Promenade Plantée is a 4.5 km-long (2.8 mile) park found in the 12th Arrondissement of Paris (The elevated portion of the promenade expands 1.5 km). In the early 1990’s the city of Paris transformed an abandoned 19th-century railway viaduct (which ceased operation in 1969), which originally connected the Bastille area of Paris to the eastern most suburbs of Paris, into the Promenade Plantée. As its name implies, the Promenade Plantée has an abundance of plant-life that lines its beautiful walkways. The feeling of being surrounded by so much vegetation within a major city like Paris can leave one feeling as though they are taking a walk on their own private forest trail, at times. At other points in the trail, the vegetation becomes sparse and the Promenade opens into large and expansive views of the 12th Arrondissement, giving you a beautiful view of the skyline and Paris as a whole. This was my first visit to the Coulée Verte and I can only imagine how much more beautiful it is in the Spring and Summer when all the flowers are in full bloom.

Promenade Plantée (in the Summer)

Though the Promenade Plantée was the only elevated park in the world for a long time, other cities have followed suit including the previously mentioned Highline in New York City, as well as Bloomingdale Trail in Chicago and the old Reading Viaduct elevated rail in the Callowhill section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th Arrond.)

// November 12th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

I very well might have found my new favorite “hidden treasure”: Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Without knowing it, I actually visited this park before, but it was at night so I had no clue how awesome it was.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

While it’s a beautiful place now, Parc des Buttes Chaumont was not always so alluring. According to a bit of research, before the 19th century this area once featured gallows where criminals were executed. Later it became a lime quarry and until 1862 it was used as a public waste ground. Since then, however, many changes have taken place and it has become a wonderful haven in Paris.

The park, which you’ll find in the 19th Arrondissement, is a short walk from metro stops Botzaris or Buttes Chaumont. They’re not the easiest metro stops to get to but that’s part of what makes this place a hidden treasure. There is also no question that the trouble of taking 3 trains to get there was well worth it once I saw what the park had to offer. With almost 3 miles of walking paths, I spent nearly 2 hours strolling through this Parisian treasure. Far from the average park (I’ve found that few parks in Paris are even close to “average”), Parc des Buttes Chaumont boasts a 98-foot waterfall, man-made cave, suspension bridges, hilly lawns, a lake (complete with ducks) and stunning stone gazebo that overlooks the park as well as much of Paris (with an especially awesome view of Sacré-Cœur).

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

Given that the park is so far from the center of Paris, it remains relatively non-touristy year-round, though I know it is a popular jogging/strolling spot for local Parisians. When I visited, however, there were only a handful of people and I really got the sense that I was far-removed from the daily chaos of Paris (much the same feeling as when I visited Jardin de la Vallée Suisse). So if you’re looking for a respite from all the noise, crowds, and other less-than-pleasant qualities of a metropolis like Paris, Parc des Buttes Chaumont is certainly the sanctuary you’ve been searching for.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Want to see a video from my visit? Parc des Buttes Chaumont Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Place des Vosges (4th Arrond.)

// November 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Place des Vosges, a beautiful square situated in the 4th Arrondissement, is one of Paris’ original attempts at urban planning and also happens to be Paris’ oldest planned square.  This square was built under the rule of Henry IV during the years 1605-1612. Originally named “Place Royale,” the name of the square was changed in 1799 when Napoleon decided to show his gratitude to the Department of Vosges because they were the first department in France to pay taxes associated with military campaigns of the time.

Place des Vosges, Paris, France

One enters the Place des Vosges through triples archways located on the north and south end of the square. The square itself is surrounded by 36 identical red brick houses with stone facings. Each of these magnificent houses is fitted with steep blue slate roofs and dorm windows. An arched walkway surrounds the perimeter of the square, while the interior of the square boasts several perfectly manicured lawns, three fountains and an equestrian statue of King Louis XIII (the statue was actually destroyed during the French Revolution, but a new one was installed in 1825). Many famous Frenchmen have lived in the houses of Place des Vosges, including Victor Hugo (he wrote the majority of Les Misérables here).

Like many of Paris’ hidden treasures, Place des Vosges is tucked away and not readily apparent to the average passerby. The arcades that surround the square feature a number of cute shops and cafes that are worth taking a look at. I definitely recommend taking the time to visit Place des Vosges, as it’s yet another of Paris’ beautiful and peaceful squares that is not to be missed.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Place des Vosges

Want to see a video from my visit? Places des Vosges Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin du Palais Royal (1st Arrond.)

// October 18th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes, Treasures

Another splendid Fall afternoon in Paris and another beautiful treasure to discover. For some time I have read and heard about the garden that sits inside the Palais Royal, so I decided that it was finally time to check it out. Completed in 1629, the Palais Royal was originally the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The scenic garden that sits within the Palais’ interior, the Jardin du Palais Royal, was originally created by the duchesse d’Orléans (otherwise known as “Madame”) in 1784.

Jardin du Palais Royal, Paris, France

Today, the Palais Royal houses the Conseil d’État, the Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Culture. Although popular among Parisians who want to spend a leisurely afternoon reading or sipping a coffee at one of the garden cafés, the fact that the garden itself is tucked away within the interior of the Palais makes it one of the lesser known gardens/courtyards in Paris when it comes to the average tourist. The garden itself is quite exquisite, with double-rows of trees running along both sides of the garden–providing visitors some much needed shade during the summer months. Two lawns, separated by a pond/fountain, sit between adjacent rows of trees. For those who are looking to do more than walk through the garden, plenty of benches and chairs are provided.

As previously mentioned, one of the more popular aspects of the garden are the several cafés that surround the perimeter of the courtyard. I took the time to grab a coffee at the one them (the name escapes me at the moment) and it was without question one of the more pleasant café experiences I have had in Paris. The view: fountains, rows of trees, children chasing one another, couples walking hand-in-hand–all very “Parisesque,” if you ask me. Next time you visit the Louvre, take a half hour to hop over to the Jardin du Palais Royal for some much needed respite from the museum’s crowds.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Palais Royal Garden

Want to see a video from my visit? Palais Royal Garden Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin des Plantes [Jardin Alpine] (5th Arrond.)

// September 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

After taking advantage of the first Sunday of the month here in Paris to gain free entry to the Pompidou Centre, I couldn’t help but track down another one of Paris’ “hidden gardens.” Roughly a 25 minute walk from Pompidou sits Jardin des Plantes, the premiere botanical garden in France. On the garden’s grounds sits a botanical school, four galleries of the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, several specialized gardens, a labyrinth and even a small zoo.

Jardin des Plantes - Jardin Alpine, Paris, France

Originally designed as a medical herb garden in 1626 by Louis XIII’s physician, Guy de La Brosse, this garden now welcomes tens of thousands of visitors a year. As previously mentioned, Jardin des Plantes is separated into several smaller, themed gardens, including: a rose garden, botanical garden, irises/climbing plants, tropical garden and the alpine garden. While entry to the Jardin des Plantes is free, there is a small 1€ fee for each specialized garden. I chose to visit the Jardin Alpine, in particular, after having read good things about it in the New York Times–I was not disappointed.

The Jardin Alpine is somewhat of a sanctuary within the relatively busy Jardin des Plantes. Contained within the garden’s walls, you will find plants from many of the mountain ranges around France (including Provence, Cevennes and the Pyrenees) as well as the world. Walkways made of small stone pebbles lead you throughout the garden. The paths take you across tiny streams, by moss-covered bogs, and up and down small plateaus. The closer one gets to the back of the garden, the thicker and more beautiful the vegetation gets.

A truly delightful experience, the Jardin Alpine is well worth the 1€ donation to the beautiful Jardin des Plantes. One could easily spend half a day visiting all of the gardens and galleries within the Jardin, but if that’s not your style, I highly recommend taking an hour out of your day to take a stroll through the Jardin Alpine when you get the chance.

Want to see pictures from my visit? Jardin des Plantes Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Jardin des Plantes Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin de la Vallée Suisse (8th Arrond.)

// September 5th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Paris is well known for its magnificent gardens such as the Tuileries or the Jardin du Luxembourg. However, there are many lesser known gardens, some of which are hidden behind tall hedges or on unassuming corners of Paris. Today, venturing out in my own arrondissement (the 8th e.), I discovered Jardin de la Vallée Suisse. This tiny garden, tucked away behind a series of tall hedges on the corner of the corner of Ave. Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Vallée Suisse (next to the Palais de la Découverte), takes of all of 1.7 acres on this busy corner.

Jardin de la Vallée Suisse, Paris, France

Built in the late 19th century by the park designer Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand, the average passerby would never notice the hidden treasure that sits just meters away. One enters the garden by walking down a series of stone steps and then passes through a stone archway, revealing the wonderful hidden jewel that is Jardin de la Vallée Suisse. Once in the garden, one finds himself surrounded by bamboo, lemon trees, roses, ivy, hanging vines and evergreens. Completely secluded from the busy Paris streets, I found myself completely alone in this garden—the sounds of the traffic barely audible, drowned out by the trickle of the tiny waterfall that feeds the beautiful pond just inside the garden. The pond and stream, as I later learned, are fed by the Seine. This splendid pond is home to many fish and is regularly visited by chirping birds of all sorts.

The privacy and serenity that Jardin de la Vallée Suisse provides makes it ideal for an intimate conversation, romantic rendezvous, or just a quiet day of reading alone. Foot-traffic is light in the garden, so one need not worry about having to share it with many others.

Want to see a photos of my visit? Jardin de la Vallée Suisse Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Jardin de la Vallée Suisse Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Hôpital St. Louis (10th Arrond.)

// August 26th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Yesterday, I wrote about my walk along the Canal St. Louis in the 10th Arrondissement. I also mentioned that during that walk I found one of the many hidden treasures of Paris, Hôpital St. Louis.

Hôpital St. Louis, 10th Arrond., Paris, France

Opened in 1618, its construction was ordered by Henri IV with the purpose of isolating Plague victims from the rest of the city’s population. During this time, as many as 6 patients were assigned to a single bed, conveying to the severity of the situation at the hospital and within Paris at the time. As the Plague subsided, the hospital continued to serve it’s purpose as a place to isolate and treat the victims of various outbreaks.

Over time, Hopital St. Louis has become world-renowned for its specialization in Dermatology. Interestingly enough, while doing research on this hospital I learned that it houses one of the most unusual and unknown museums in the city, the Musee des Moulages or the “Museum of Masks.” This museum, though rarely open to visitors (only by appointment), houses over 4,000 molds/casts of rare and often grotesque skin diseases.

Flowers in the Hôpital St. Louis Courtyard

But if it’s not rare and grotesque skin diseases you’re looking for, have no worries. Hôpital St. Louis has one of the more beautiful and peaceful courtyards I’ve seen in Paris thus far. Far removed from the hustle and bustle (and tourists) of inner-city Paris, Hôpital St. Louis provides its visitors with beautifully manicured lawns surrounded by 17th Century architecture. At the time of my visit (Tuesday @ 4:00PM), there were only a handful of people around, all quietly reading or chatting with friends. This location is ideally suited for a quiet picnic or afternoon of reading and is certainly a place I will return to soon.

Want to see pictures from my visit? Hôpital St. Louis Photos

Want to see a video of my visit? Hôpital St. Louis Courtyard

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits