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Hidden Treasures of Paris: Promenade Plantée (Coulée Verte)

// December 27th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

In the summer of 2009, shortly before I moved to Paris, New York City opened the now extremely popular “Highline” in Manhattan. The basic concept behind the Highline was to take the deteriorating and long-unused West Side Freight Railroad, which had become an eyesore to all New Yorkers, and turn it into something that could be appreciated by everyone. Needless to say, the project has turned out to be an enormous success.

Promenade Plantée, Paris, France

Unbeknown to most New Yorkers and certainly many visitors of Paris is that the Highline has a predecessor in Paris which predated it by nearly a decade and a half—the Promenade Plantée (also known as the “Coulée Verte”). The Promenade Plantée is a 4.5 km-long (2.8 mile) park found in the 12th Arrondissement of Paris (The elevated portion of the promenade expands 1.5 km). In the early 1990’s the city of Paris transformed an abandoned 19th-century railway viaduct (which ceased operation in 1969), which originally connected the Bastille area of Paris to the eastern most suburbs of Paris, into the Promenade Plantée. As its name implies, the Promenade Plantée has an abundance of plant-life that lines its beautiful walkways. The feeling of being surrounded by so much vegetation within a major city like Paris can leave one feeling as though they are taking a walk on their own private forest trail, at times. At other points in the trail, the vegetation becomes sparse and the Promenade opens into large and expansive views of the 12th Arrondissement, giving you a beautiful view of the skyline and Paris as a whole. This was my first visit to the Coulée Verte and I can only imagine how much more beautiful it is in the Spring and Summer when all the flowers are in full bloom.

Promenade Plantée (in the Summer)

Though the Promenade Plantée was the only elevated park in the world for a long time, other cities have followed suit including the previously mentioned Highline in New York City, as well as Bloomingdale Trail in Chicago and the old Reading Viaduct elevated rail in the Callowhill section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania.

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Nightlife Review: La Guillotine Pub

// December 18th, 2009 // Comments // Nightlife

There is never a shortage of visitors when you live in Paris, but when the visit is unexpected it is that much more enjoyable. Such was the case when my cousin Robb wrote me an e-mail one day before his arrival telling me he would be in Paris for work. Though the visit was supposed to last 3 days, it has now been drawn out to almost a week and a half. Needless to say, we have had the chance to explore a few new places in Paris during his stay.

Our latest discovery was a small bar/jazz club named La Guillotine. From the exterior, it’s a pretty unassuming bar–dimly lit and small, but cozy. The bar itself is a pleasant place to grab a happy hour cocktail, with pretty reasonable drink prices. But the real appeal of this place is what lies beneath the bar itself–a small room called “Le Caveau des Oubliettes“. Translated into English this literally means “the cave of the forgotten”. The name is derived from the fact that during medieval times this cave held prisoners awaiting execution, via the guillotine, of course. A tight stone stairwell leads guests into a cave equipped with iron handcuffs, barred windows, and chains hanging from the walls. One can imagine this was a pretty unwelcome site for its former residents.

But while the cave has a long and dark history, today Le Caveau des Oubliettes provides its guests with a place where they can sit and be entertained, rather than executed. La Guillotine Pub regularly hosts jazz and blues artists from around the world. Guests sit only a matter of meters from the band as the sounds of the artists reverberate throughout the cave. Not for those who are claustrophobic, the cave is a tight space and you will certainly get to know the other guests very well (very close seating)–there are only about 12 tables in total. If you expect to get a good seat, I would recommend showing up 30-45 minutes early because once the door to the cave is opened the entire bar rushes down to get a seat. But once you’ve locked in that coveted seat (for free—no cover charge), you can sit back, relax and enjoy the atmosphere and great music.

Café Review: Angelina’s

// December 6th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes

Having followed Paris blogs closely since I first decided to move to Paris, I’ve discovered that there is one common thread between them all–they have all written a blog post about the best hot chocolate in Paris: Angelina’s. So, it’s time to become part of the group.

Angelina's, Paris, France

Since having opened in 1903, Angelina’s has unquestionably become the most well known hot chocolate in all of Paris and potentially that of France, as well. Word has it that Angelina’s once drew the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel and while you might not seem famous faces when you visit, you will certainly see happy ones. While it is clear that the café itself is worth seeing–designed in an early 19th Century decor–the thing that truly draws people to Angelina’s is the hot chocolate. This specialty of the house is actually a variety of hot chocolate called Chocolat Africain (translation: African Hot Chocolate). This isn’t your everyday powdered Nestle’s hot chocolate mix, but instead a a teapot filled with melted milk chocolate covered in freshly made whip cream. Those people who are not fans of rich chocolate should be aware that Angelina’s hot chocolate is made for the die-hard chocolate-lovers out there. But I must say, even though I am not a huge fan of chocolate, I thoroughly enjoyed my cup.

Neither the hot chocolate, nor the meals (which I also hear are good), run cheap at Angelina’s. Regardless, it’s still worth stopping in for a nice warm drink on a cold day. The ambiance is pleasant, the service is above par (for Paris), and the drinks are good. After you finish up, consider crossing the street and to take a stroll through the beautiful Tuilerie Gardens.

Life in France: A Visit to Chartres, France

// November 27th, 2009 // Comments // Chartres, General

My apologies for for the lack of posts as of late, but things have been very busy. This past week I was in Egypt for business and pleasure. But I’m back in Paris now and ready to start posting again, so stay tuned in the coming weeks. On with the post…

The day immediately following my return from Egypt, I headed out for my first day-trip to one of the cities surrounding Paris. For this trip, a couple of my Alliance Francaise classmates and I chose to visit Chartres, a town located about 60 miles southwest of Paris.

Chartres, France

Chartres is best known for its Cathedrale Notre Dame, that sits on a high point within the town. While the Notre Dame cathedral located in Paris is far more famous throughout the world, Chartre’s Notre Dame is, in fact, the largest cathedral in France. Construction on this magnificent structure began in 1205 and took over 65 years to complete. It is now considered by many to be the finest Gothic cathedral in all of France. Evidently, Chartres was also a great centre of pilgrimage in the Middle Ages and the cathedral still exhibits many of the famous relics of this period including the silk tunic worn by Mary on the day she gave birth to Jesus.

While the church is the centerpiece of this town, it’s not the only reason to visit. Walking around the town is a pleasure in-and-of-itself. Chartre’s is full of beautiful winding streets that are a joy to explore. Additionally, the city is built on the left bank of the Eure River, which runs through the town. Small, yet romantic, stone bridges take one back-and-forth across the river. There are a select few restaurants that sit right on the water that make for a wonderful lunch break during your visit.

The Bridges of Chartres, France

The round-trip ticket only cost about €27 and travel time is only 1-hour each way. You could easily see much of what Chartres has to offer in a few hours, making it very simple to only spend half a day on this excursion. Overall, this was a very successful trip and I would recommend it to anyone who wants to get out of the city for a day.

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th Arrond.)

// November 12th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

I very well might have found my new favorite “hidden treasure”: Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Without knowing it, I actually visited this park before, but it was at night so I had no clue how awesome it was.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

While it’s a beautiful place now, Parc des Buttes Chaumont was not always so alluring. According to a bit of research, before the 19th century this area once featured gallows where criminals were executed. Later it became a lime quarry and until 1862 it was used as a public waste ground. Since then, however, many changes have taken place and it has become a wonderful haven in Paris.

The park, which you’ll find in the 19th Arrondissement, is a short walk from metro stops Botzaris or Buttes Chaumont. They’re not the easiest metro stops to get to but that’s part of what makes this place a hidden treasure. There is also no question that the trouble of taking 3 trains to get there was well worth it once I saw what the park had to offer. With almost 3 miles of walking paths, I spent nearly 2 hours strolling through this Parisian treasure. Far from the average park (I’ve found that few parks in Paris are even close to “average”), Parc des Buttes Chaumont boasts a 98-foot waterfall, man-made cave, suspension bridges, hilly lawns, a lake (complete with ducks) and stunning stone gazebo that overlooks the park as well as much of Paris (with an especially awesome view of Sacré-Cœur).

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Paris, France

Given that the park is so far from the center of Paris, it remains relatively non-touristy year-round, though I know it is a popular jogging/strolling spot for local Parisians. When I visited, however, there were only a handful of people and I really got the sense that I was far-removed from the daily chaos of Paris (much the same feeling as when I visited Jardin de la Vallée Suisse). So if you’re looking for a respite from all the noise, crowds, and other less-than-pleasant qualities of a metropolis like Paris, Parc des Buttes Chaumont is certainly the sanctuary you’ve been searching for.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Want to see a video from my visit? Parc des Buttes Chaumont Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Place des Vosges (4th Arrond.)

// November 7th, 2009 // Comments // Treasures

Place des Vosges, a beautiful square situated in the 4th Arrondissement, is one of Paris’ original attempts at urban planning and also happens to be Paris’ oldest planned square.  This square was built under the rule of Henry IV during the years 1605-1612. Originally named “Place Royale,” the name of the square was changed in 1799 when Napoleon decided to show his gratitude to the Department of Vosges because they were the first department in France to pay taxes associated with military campaigns of the time.

Place des Vosges, Paris, France

One enters the Place des Vosges through triples archways located on the north and south end of the square. The square itself is surrounded by 36 identical red brick houses with stone facings. Each of these magnificent houses is fitted with steep blue slate roofs and dorm windows. An arched walkway surrounds the perimeter of the square, while the interior of the square boasts several perfectly manicured lawns, three fountains and an equestrian statue of King Louis XIII (the statue was actually destroyed during the French Revolution, but a new one was installed in 1825). Many famous Frenchmen have lived in the houses of Place des Vosges, including Victor Hugo (he wrote the majority of Les Misérables here).

Like many of Paris’ hidden treasures, Place des Vosges is tucked away and not readily apparent to the average passerby. The arcades that surround the square feature a number of cute shops and cafes that are worth taking a look at. I definitely recommend taking the time to visit Place des Vosges, as it’s yet another of Paris’ beautiful and peaceful squares that is not to be missed.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Place des Vosges

Want to see a video from my visit? Places des Vosges Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Paris Nightlife Review: Showcase (8th Arrond.)

// October 25th, 2009 // Comments // Nightlife

I recently met and became friends with a Paris party promoter through the international traveler community CouchSurfing.com. Over the past several weeks, he has been cool enough to put me on the guestlist for a number of events/clubs, including one this past Friday. The club, Showcase, is just a short 10 minute walk from where I live so I figured it would be silly not to take advantage of the opportunity and see what this club was about.

Showcase, Paris, France

Showcase is located underneath Pont Alexandre III (Alexander III Bridge) in the 8th arrondissement. The location couldn’t be better, as the club sits right on the Seine. In fact, if you make your way to the back end of this venue, there is a large window which looks across the Seine with a direct view of the Eiffel Tower–pretty amazing sight if you consider that you’re in a club.

The interior of Showcase is quite a spectacle, as well. Everything goes above and beyond. Huge stone arches, a massive dance floor, and plenty of lounge chairs line the interior. Typical club lighting–purple, blue, white–shoots all over as you make your way around. A large bar is staffed with plenty of bartenders waiting to serve you your overly priced €13 drinks (I recommend visiting a local bar before coming here).

Showcase is also known as a music venue. Each weekend they host some of the biggest names on the European music and DJ scene. Quite honestly, I haven’t heard of many of these artists and DJs (not typically my type of music), but there is no question that the shows are quite popular. On Friday, for example, a house music duo by the name of Basement Jaxx put on a great show. The show was well executed and the audience took notice–the club and dance floor were packed.

Even if this type of place isn’t necessarily your scene, Showcase is probably still worth checking out one time simply for the physical location, as well as the club itself. If you’re into this scene and type of music, you should definitely check Showcase out. Be aware that this venue, like many Parisian clubs, doesn’t start to fill up until midnight or later, so don’t plan on showing up early if you’re looking for a crowd to be there when you arrive. Showcase is a rather chic club, so dress to impress. Also, be prepared to pay a €20 cover-charge if you’re not on the guestlist.

Hidden Treasures of Paris: Jardin du Palais Royal (1st Arrond.)

// October 18th, 2009 // Comments // Cafes, Treasures

Another splendid Fall afternoon in Paris and another beautiful treasure to discover. For some time I have read and heard about the garden that sits inside the Palais Royal, so I decided that it was finally time to check it out. Completed in 1629, the Palais Royal was originally the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The scenic garden that sits within the Palais’ interior, the Jardin du Palais Royal, was originally created by the duchesse d’Orléans (otherwise known as “Madame”) in 1784.

Jardin du Palais Royal, Paris, France

Today, the Palais Royal houses the Conseil d’État, the Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Culture. Although popular among Parisians who want to spend a leisurely afternoon reading or sipping a coffee at one of the garden cafés, the fact that the garden itself is tucked away within the interior of the Palais makes it one of the lesser known gardens/courtyards in Paris when it comes to the average tourist. The garden itself is quite exquisite, with double-rows of trees running along both sides of the garden–providing visitors some much needed shade during the summer months. Two lawns, separated by a pond/fountain, sit between adjacent rows of trees. For those who are looking to do more than walk through the garden, plenty of benches and chairs are provided.

As previously mentioned, one of the more popular aspects of the garden are the several cafés that surround the perimeter of the courtyard. I took the time to grab a coffee at the one them (the name escapes me at the moment) and it was without question one of the more pleasant café experiences I have had in Paris. The view: fountains, rows of trees, children chasing one another, couples walking hand-in-hand–all very “Parisesque,” if you ask me. Next time you visit the Louvre, take a half hour to hop over to the Jardin du Palais Royal for some much needed respite from the museum’s crowds.

Want to see photos from my visit?: Photos of Palais Royal Garden

Want to see a video from my visit? Palais Royal Garden Video

Want to see this location on a map? Map of My Visits

Life in Paris: La Semaine du Goût

// October 14th, 2009 // Comments // General, Restaurants

You would never know it by looking at their women, but the French love to eat. The longer I live in France and Paris in particular, the more I realize how much French life revolves around food. Understanding this and the fact that the French love to celebrate just about every aspect of their culture (heritage, arts, fashion, etc.) helps explain why there’s a week committed entirely to the favorite of the their five senses…taste. Yes, this week is “La Semaine du Goût” or “The Week of Taste,” a week dedicated to appreciating taste and food.

La Semaine du Goût, Paris, France

Unlike other food-related weeks around the world (e.g. “Restaurant Week” in New York City), which focuses primarily on giving people deals on restaurants, La Semaine du Goût has pedagogic goals. According to the official website, the goals of La Semaine du Goût are:

1. Provide taste education for consumers
2. Teach the diversity of tastes and flavors
3. Provide transparent information and teaching about products origin, production methods and their specificity
4. Transfer skills and know-how
5. Highlight the pleasure of taste
6. Encourage behavior and food consumption as part of a balanced land sustainable lifestyle

Pretty great goals, if you ask me. Don’t get me wrong, however, La Semaine du Goût is not all about teaching, as there’s plenty of fun to be had. The website provides an extensive list of “Les Tables du Gout” or some of the best restaurants in Paris where France’s most famous cooks prepare their specialties at highly discounted prices for students, residents and visitors alike. Additionally, throughout Paris in schools, culinary institutes and various public spaces there are free cooking classes, taste testing and wine sampling.

It goes without saying but you foodies out there in Paris should make sure to take advantage of this week’s festivities before its over. And to the rest of you around the world, don’t miss out next year. La Semaine du Goût ends on October 18th.

Learning French in Paris: Alliance Française – Week 5

// October 12th, 2009 // Comments // General

The following post is likely to be of very little interest to most readers of AmericInParis, other than my mom, but I’m going to share it anyway. I’m now in week 5 of my French classes at Alliance Française here in Paris. I’ve learned a lot, including several verb tenses: passe compose, present, and futur simple. This past Friday we had our first written exam that required us to use all three tenses. The assignment: Write a letter to someone as though we were currently on a trip. Requirements, use all three tenses (past, present and future), use time-phrases (e.g. Yesterday, afterwards, tomorrow, etc.) and talk about activities. The strike-throughs and red font are things my teacher crossed out or changed (adding letters, accents, correcting verbs, etc.). This was an in-class exam, no dictionary allowed. Anyway, enough suspense, the following is the mini-essay I wrote:

Chére Eleonore,

Je suis à Paris maintenant pour un voyage avec mon ami Taylor. Paris est une ville magnifique, grand et peuplée. Il y a beaucoup des monuments!

Hier, Taylor et moi sommes allés à au musée de Louvre. Aussi, nous avons mangé dans un resto trés génial. J’ai mangé le meilleur déjeuner de ma vie! Après, nous avons vu un film dans sur les Champs-Elysées.

Aujourd’hui, nous avons visité Notre Dame–c’est une cathédrale très beau belle. Mais, il pleaut et il fait un peau peu frais donc maintenant, il faut porter beaucoup des vêtements! A 16h, nous  aurons irons a Les aux Invalides a voir le tombeau Nàpoleon.

Finalement, a demain Taylor et moi, nous visiterons l’Arch de Triumph, l’Opera, et la le Jardin du Luxembourg. Je pense que nous dinerons avec un amie de Taylor aussi.

Actuellment, j’aime cette ville. Je voudrais habiter ici et je ne veux pas partir de Paris! Mais, je devraisa aua lundi. Je suis te téléphonerai toi à lundi quand je rentrerai a chez moi! retourner travail

Bisous,

Miguel

The following is a rough translation for those of you who don’t speak French. Please bare in mind that I wasn’t really shooting for style or deep-thoughts!

Dear Eleonore,

I’m in Paris right now for a trip with my friend Taylor. Paris is a city that is magnificent, big and populous. There are many monuments!

Yesterday, Taylor and I went to the Louvre. Also, we ate in a great restaurant. I ate the best lunch of my life! Afterwards, we saw a movie on the Champs Elysees.

Today, we visited Notre Dame–it is a very beautiful Cathedral! But it rained and it is chilly, therefore it is necessary to where a lot of clothes! A 4PM, we will go to Invalides to view Napoleon’s tomb.

Finally, tomorrow Taylor and I will visit the Arch de Triumph, Opera, and the Luxembourg Garden. I think that we will eat dinner with a friend of Taylor’s, as well.

Actually, I love this city. I would like to live here and I don’t want to leave Paris! But, I have to return to work on Monday! I will call you on Monday when I return to my house.

Kisses,

Miguel

So that was my written exam for which I received a “bien!” from my teacher. A lot of red marks, but I’m not going to lie…I was quite pleased with myself. Considering that I had never studied a single word of French prior to coming to Paris, I think things are coming along quite well for 5 weeks. I guess there is hope for not being a mono-lingual American after all.